HOW TO PREP YOUR BOAT
FOR STORAGE SEASON

Whether you're putting your boat away for the off-season or just keeping it protected between weekend trips, proper prep makes all the difference. Skip a few steps now and you could be dealing with corroded engines, musty interiors, and critter damage when spring rolls around. The good news is that none of this is complicated. It just takes a methodical approach and a couple of hours of your time.

Here's the checklist we recommend to every boat owner we work with across the Inland Empire.

Step 1: Clean Everything

Start with a thorough wash. Hit the hull, deck, gunwales, and any exterior surfaces with a marine-safe soap and a good scrub. Road grime from trailering, water stains, and salt deposits left sitting on gel coat will etch into the finish over time, especially under the heat of a Southern California summer.

Move to the interior next. Pull out seat cushions and vacuum underneath them. Wipe down vinyl, consoles, and storage compartments. Remove every scrap of food, every half-empty drink, and anything that could attract mice, ants, or roaches. Even a forgotten granola bar wrapper in a glove box can turn into a pest problem over a few months.

Don't forget the bilge. Pump it out, clean it with a bilge cleaner, and let it dry completely. A dirty, damp bilge is the number one source of that musty "boat smell" that greets you when you pull the cover off.

Step 2: Handle the Engine

Your engine is the most expensive component on the boat, so give it the attention it deserves before storage. If you've been running in saltwater or brackish water, flush the cooling system thoroughly with fresh water. Salt left sitting in water passages will corrode internal components faster than almost anything else.

• Fog the engine cylinders with fogging oil to prevent internal corrosion
• Change the oil and oil filter while the engine is still warm so contaminants don't sit in the crankcase
• Add fuel stabilizer to a full tank of gas and run the engine long enough to circulate it through the fuel system
• Disconnect the battery and store it in a cool, dry place — ideally on a trickle charger to maintain charge
• Inspect belts, hoses, and the lower unit for any signs of wear while you're in there

A little preventive maintenance here saves a lot of money at the mechanic when it's time to get back on the water.

Step 3: Drain All Water Systems

Standing water is the enemy. Drain the freshwater tank, the hot water heater, the bilge pump, live wells, bait wells, and any onboard coolers. Open every drain plug and petcock you can find.

Even here in the Inland Empire, where hard freezes are rare at lower elevations, stagnant water creates problems. It breeds mold and mildew, produces foul odors, and can damage pumps and plumbing fittings. And if you're storing your boat up in the mountains near Big Bear or Lake Arrowhead, freeze damage becomes a real concern. Water expands when it freezes, and it will crack pipes, fittings, and pump housings without hesitation.

Run non-toxic antifreeze through the freshwater plumbing if there's any chance of freezing temperatures where you're storing the boat.

Step 4: Protect the Interior

Airflow is your best friend when a boat is sitting in storage. Open all compartment lids, cabinet doors, and hatches so air can circulate and moisture doesn't get trapped. Toss a few moisture absorber products (DampRid or silica-based desiccants) in key areas like the cabin, under-seat compartments, and near the helm console.

Remove anything valuable — electronics, fishing gear, portable GPS units, stereo faceplates. Storage facilities are generally safe, but there's no reason to tempt fate. Plus, electronics can corrode in a damp, sealed environment.

If your boat has removable canvas tops, biminis, or seat cushions, pull them off and store them indoors in a climate-controlled space. Canvas left folded and sitting in a hot, enclosed boat is a magnet for mildew. Cushions stored properly last years longer than ones left baking in the sun or marinating in humidity.

Step 5: Cover and Protect the Exterior

This is where the choice you make matters most. A lot of boat owners default to throwing a tarp over the boat and calling it done. We get it — tarps are cheap. But cheap protection leads to expensive problems.

Tarps flap in the wind and abrade your gel coat. They sag and collect water in pools that stress the hull. The grommets tear out after a couple of windstorms. And even "fitted" boat covers stretch, shift, and rub the finish underneath them over time.

Shrink wrap is the better answer. It heat-shrinks to a custom fit around the exact contours of your boat — every antenna, every rail, every outboard motor. There's zero movement, zero flapping, and zero pooling. The material is UV-stabilized to handle California sun, and we install ventilation openings to prevent moisture and heat buildup underneath.

Shrink wrap stays tight and secure for months. No midnight trips to re-tie a tarp after Santa Ana winds blow through. No straps digging into your gel coat. No canvas rubbing through your finish. It stays put until you're ready to cut it off and get back on the water.

Step 6: Choose Your Storage Spot

Where you store the boat matters almost as much as how you prep it. Here in the Inland Empire, you've got options:

• Indoor storage offers the best protection but comes with the highest monthly cost and limited availability
• Covered storage keeps direct sun and rain off the boat and is more affordable than indoor
• Outdoor dry storage lots are the most common and budget-friendly option across Riverside, Corona, Temecula, and Menifee

If you're going with outdoor storage — and most people do — then shrink wrapping becomes even more critical. Your boat will be fully exposed to sun, wind, dust, and rain for the entire storage period. A proper shrink wrap job turns an outdoor storage spot into something that delivers close to indoor-level protection at a fraction of the cost.

Getting your boat ready for storage doesn't have to be overwhelming. Work through these steps methodically, invest in proper exterior protection, and you'll pull the wrap off to find a boat that looks exactly the way you left it — clean, dry, and ready to hit the water.